Spring lawn care is a lot like baseball at this time of year. Optimism runs high and with a few "right" moves great results can take place. Here are a few basic tips that can help your lawn.
             Fertilization: A bare minimum of fertilizer should be used in the spring. Because conditions are optimal for plant growth, avoid excessive nitrogen applications. Root growth will be diminished if excess nitrogen is readily available to the plant. The roots have a tendency to stay shallow instead of growing deep. This has a very pronounced effect as the plant approaches the summer drought season. The plant tissue is not as prepared to withstand periods of hot temperature and drought because there is not enough root mass to take up moisture and available nutrients if roots stay close to the soil surface. If, however, your lawn is yellowish looking or sluggish then it is best to use a slow release fertilizer. This means the prill (or grain) of fertilizer has a coating that dissolves slowly allowing the nitrogen to be released over a longer period of time. In Ohio, the spring flush growth will last through the 1st or 2nd week of June. To better prepare the grass plants for spring and create a healthier and hardier lawn use a late fall application of a highly soluble nitrogen source. Because root activity continues over winter, the plant stores its nutrients in the roots during the early winter and gives the plant a source of carbohydrates coming out of late winter. When shoot growth stops it is time to apply this application of fertilizer.
           Weed control: To use less herbicide and therefore save money resist the media blitz on radio and television to "weed and feed" all spring. First of all, the best time to kill broad leaf weeds (dandelions, etc.) is in the fall. The same mechanism that stores nutrients in the roots of grass plants will trans locate the herbicide downward throughout the entire weed in the fall. This eliminates the whole weed and it won't be back. In the spring, the flow of fluids is upward which means that herbicide will usually only kill plant top growth from the point of contact up to the top of the weed. It may come back. A thick healthy stand of grass is a much better way to control weeds. This costs less while curbing the use of chemicals. I haven't used herbicides on my lawn for four or five years. By concentrating on keeping the stand thick and healthy there will be less weed pressure. I keep a small quantity of broad leaf herbicide on hand to spot treat near curbs and sidewalks where week pressure is the greatest.
          For crabgrass and other grassy weeds we can put down a preemergent control herbicide. This needs to be applied in early spring before the weeds can penetrate the soil surface especially as the soil temperatures pass through the 50-55 degree range. A cost savings tip would be to diagram where the crabgrass is and treat that spot in the fall to rid your yard of that problem. WARNING! Do not use a preemergent herbicide if you plan on seeding. It takes about five months before grass can grow through this treatment. The same thing applies for overseeding and the use of almost any herbicide. Wait until the new seedlings have been mowed at least three times before attempting to use weed killers.
         Mowing: Mowing is the single most important cultural practice for your lawn. Be sure to sharpen and balance the mower blade. If dull, the blade will tear off the tissue which invites disease entry and excess browning will occur at the tip of the plants. This gives a brownish hue to the turf instead of the dark green color we desire. Remember the 1/3 rd rule. Never mow off more than 1/3 rd of the plant height at any one time. If your turf has gotten too high to follow this rule, I would suggest that the overall height be reduced in two mowing that follow this rule. It is known that ignoring this simple rule results in the loss of root mass and places the turf under stress fir a period of 2-3 weeks. Grass plants need the proper amount of leaf tissue to photosynthesize. Remember this rule of thumb: roots=shoots. The shorter you mow the turf the less root mass will exist below the surface. That means as summer approaches it is a good idea to raise the height of cut somewhat to better prepare the turf for summer drought stress. 2 ½" to 3" is a good height to maintain a healthy stand while keeping out weeds. This means that yards may need to be mowed 2-3 times per week during periods of flush growth to follow the 1/3rd rule.
         Insect control: Currently the two best products to control white grubs are Merit and Mach II. The new products (Arena & Aloft) are looking fantastic (I am using them!). Look on the label of the product you intend to buy. It will state which product is included. It is important to note that Mach II has little effect on cutworms and army worms, while Merit will effectively control both. Timing of this application is crucial. If a commercial grade of Merit is applied (.3 a.i.) it will eliminate bill bugs and cinch bugs if applied around May 15th. This will be effective until mid August. Care must be taken to watch for another generation of grubs in late August or September. If a residential grade product is used (.2 a.i.), something bought at the local lawn and garden store, application should be made in mid June to insure grub control for the season. Control of bill bugs and cinch bugs will not be insured with the less potent product applied later in the season.
         Seeding: When purchasing seed it is important to select the species that is right for your needs. Kentucky Blue Grass is slow to establish (19-22 days) but is self healing. It has rhizomes that grow into bare spots and will fill small voids. KBG will go dormant during periods of excessive drought but usually recovers when adequate moisture is present. Perennial Rye Grass is the quickest to establish (5-7 days). It is a bunch type grass (one that does not spread) that is susceptible to disease. Check with your seed supplier (I recommend Jacklin Seed products) to request a newer variety of disease resistance rye. This will cost a little extra but being genetically resistant to Gray Leaf Spot is worth it. Tall Turf Type Fescue is the third suggestion to pick from. It is also a bunch type non spreading specie but Tall Fescue has a much deeper root system than the two previously mentioned. The root structure is considerably deeper and will hold its color 2-4 weeks longer than KBG. Remember, by keeping the fertility program at the optimum level, most common diseases are either eliminated or masked sufficiently. Either tall fescue or perennial rye can be used in shady trouble spots. Moisture control is critical for the successful germination of any grass seed. The seedbed needs to be kept moist but not excessively wet. 5-7 frequent shallow watering are better than one drenching one. Try not to let the seedbed dry out completely. It is a good idea to use a "starter" fertilizer when seeding areas. Look for a fertilizer with a "high" middle number (16-25-12 etc.).
        Irrigation: ¾, of water per week is sufficient. An inch a week is ideal. Blue Grass needs ½"-1" of water per month during a dormant period to keep the crowns alive. Water should be applied in deep infrequent watering rather than daily shallow ones. This helps the roots to grow deeper rather than stay close to the surface.

By following these simple tips, everyone can have a lush, thick, weed free yard while keeping costs to a minimum.